Sunday, March 2, 2014

Austin, Texas Time to get weird.

Austin, Texas: state capital and our new destination.

Oh what a relief it is....


Two weeks on the Great Plains, that broad expanse of flat land stretching from the Gulf of Mexico up into Canada, were enough to have us hankering for some relief, geographic “relief” that is. By that, I mean “The Hill Country” of Texas.


A Dodge-y Ride was in store.



No sooner were we on the road and exiting San Antonio when our poor Chrysler van got a little “Dodge-y”, shifting erratically as it tried to deal with the new landscape...one very strangely like home.


A taste of different - so good

Often described as mystical, The Hill Country is home to massive limestone and granite outcroppings, spring-fed streams, spring wildflowers, abundant white-tail deer, Texas-size ranches and small towns founded by European immigrants.  Very beautiful!......


Fredericksburg - And the Full Pinocchio


Ach, du Lieber!
Situated just far enough from Austin and San Antonio, Fredericksburg has become the perfect hide-away for week-end jaunts. To promote itself, the town pushes its German heritage with a few strategically located “Willkommen to Fredericksburg” signs and of course, your obligatory Bratwurst Joint.  For the most part, though, Fredericksburg is just your kitschy run-of-the-mill tourist trap. 

 So why do they come?

It must be a “Field of Dreams” thing?  “ If-you-build-it, they will come.” 
We don't dial 911.

As for the real Fredericksburg, let's say that honesty might not be the best economic policy, so on with the untruths.  After all, they're generally tastier than the truth, especially if a German beer comes with that Bratwurst.



So Pinocchio, worry not!  Your myth will most assuredly continue and prosper for a good number of years to come.


How serendipity......

As fate would have it, we were all hungry and were hoping to enjoy lunch at a local winery just outside of town. Surprisingly, Texas' growing wine industry is already the fifth largest in the U.S.  Unfortunately, no food service was to be found in any of the wineries.  What to do?

Back to the car, Batman!  Next stop, Johnson City, just 15 miles away. Its size, a puny 1.3 sq. miles in area with a population of about 1,700, might make one ask what could possibly be of interest here.

In fact, there were two things, the least of which, that Lyndon Johnson,America's 36th president
was born and raised here.

More importantly though, was our discovery of Ronnie's Ice House Barbeque, simply the best BBQ restaurant in all of Texas. 

 
Some may take this assertion as a Texas-sized exaggeration but between the fantastic service, the wonderful discussions around gun control with Ronnie, and the incredibly tasty meal, this simple restaurant got our “www.tripadvisor. com” vote. Now we were ready for Austin.


Austin, Tx – Keep it Weird


Yes, that is the official motto of Texas' capital city. Almost intentionally, well yes, very intentionally the citizens of this city do what they can to live up to the challenge. 

 And why not? It is a very successful young city.


With a median age of just 31 years old, Austin is not only the 11th-largest city in the U. S. and 4th largest in Texas, it's also the fastest growing one in the country. About the size of Ottawa, the city feels young, much like a gangly teenager, going through a serious growth spurt. Like zits, new construction is everywhere. 



 The growth is due to all the main culprits in any booming town but special note should go out to the high-tech industry (especially Dell) which is tucked away in the hills of the city. In fact, the area has become known as “Silicon Hills”.


But back to weird. For the traveler entering Austin on First Avenue, or so your GPS says, it might get weird because the signs say Cesar Chavez Ave. You thought the Colorado River was in Colorado, but no, Austin has its Colorado River too. The thoroughfares are called “loops” but only go straight, and the official animal of the city is the bat. A bit “loopy”, maybe “batty”? No, it's just Austin keeping it weird.


Weird for Texas? Sure. Austin is like a rebellious preacher’s kid. It’s cool, popular, breaks all the rules, and doesn’t go to church very much. Family members from elsewhere visit from time to time, but everyone wonders if they’re all part of the same family.


It seems that it's been this way forever. When most of the state decided to join the Confederacy, Austin declined. When most of the state decided to join the Republican Party, Austin declined.





But really, Austin is just more counter-Texas than
counter-culture. Austin boasts unique attractions, festivals, and music venues. It’s livable, a hard term to quantify until Austinites (yes, that what they call them) visit other cities and return recounting their flaws.


What we liked was the infectious, welcoming spirit of the city. You can strike up random conversations with random people like one does at the grocery check-out. Here's one example.


A “capitol” experience


I woke up early one morning, snuck out of the condo, and set out in the early morning to pick up some milk. Somewhat ADHD and highly interested in everything new, my wayward travels eventually led me to the capitol. Pushing on one of the doors “just to see”, the four guards inside were as surprised to see me, as was I them.
You like to arrive early", they said with a smile. "Welcome! to the state capitol, 14 feet taller than the one in Washington. Just put your change in the tray, pass through the machine, and Karen over there will be happy to give you a tour.”
Poor Karen, who was enjoying her first morning coffee was out under the dome, saw me from afar, waved and smiled.
I'm just out getting some milk”, I said.
How much time to you have”, said she.
Maybe 10 minutes.”
Well, let's get started. You'll love this place.”
In a flash, we were off and like a proud aunt wanting to make sure I missed nothing, Karen deviously kept it all so interesting that I gladly postponed my search for milk, until
“Auntie Karen” was done.
Y'all come back soon, hear?”, she said with a smile and a wave as I left...her first official tour group of 15 waiting to begin.
It goes without saying that I was so excited about the experience, I returned to the condo to tell everyone...without the milk of course.


Conversation over wine...at the grocery store!!!

Whole Foods is not your ordinary grocery store in Texas but rather a
veritable Disneyland for Foodies. It even has its own wine bar.

Wanting to give it a test run, Linda and I ordered a glass of Pinot Gris and then took the picture. That was the conversation primer for the lady at the next table who, as it turned out, was carrying a Glock. Her point on how “guns in Texas” are the safe
equalizer proved very interesting and our exchange, very civilized.
A wonderful surprise!


If this is Texas, then we must be in Austin. May it continue to be “weird”!






A little levity about guns down here.


By the way, the FBI ranks Austin as the second safest major city in the U.S.


A Small Retrospective on a BIG State:

This will be our last taste of Texas for a while so I guess it's time for some retrospective.
Thing I – What a big, friendly, beautiful place.
Thing II – It's no paradise and it certainly has it's share of foibles and problems. However, Texas pride, heritage, and ingenuity seem to be a good place to start to overcome them.
If Texas were open to suggestions, I would suggest being one Ted Cruz lighter...oh yeah, and maybe Chuck Norris too.

Our best to Texas and thank you!


My favourite phrase: In Texas, it's never just “no”, it's “Hell, no!”



Thank you!

Tomorrow, we leave for Naples, Florida while Ken and Fran will stay on and travel to Phoenix later.
A huge word of thanks to our good friends and frequent travel buddies, Ken and Fran. As ever, you were great travel companions. It's always a joy discovering new parts of the world with you or just revisiting old haunts.
AdiĆ³s mis amigos. Safe travels.



Until next time.


No comments:

Post a Comment