Mendoza - Land of good sun and good wine

Blog VIII 

It was a glorious morning when we left Buenos Aires that day...

....lifting off from the beautiful Jorge Newbery, airport, right on the River Plata.

The goal?....To leave early and hit the ground running once we made it to...you know....

....M-e-n-d-o-z-a. But were we surprised!

Surprise #1: Sure... earthquakes...but this?

I thought that we might only have to worry about earthquakes...possibly a fire, but....

Rain????

Mendoza sits the eastern side of the Andes, not far from the Chilean border, in what they call a “rain shadow”, a desert where, supposedly only 200 ml. of rain fall annually.

Question: Did we get it all???

Surprise #2: Send in the Ark!

A break in the weather gave us the courage to head out to eat. That was a mistake!! 

The Argentinians eat late and long and by the time supper was over, it was teeming again....and the streets were like rivers.

Standing on the sidewalk and 8 blocks from home, we had to cross the “Rubicon” ... “ford” the street....so to speak.

An oasis....

With its many parks and fountains...

...and all the trees, that tower up on both sides of every street, keeping everyone cool,.....

....Mendoza looks like an oasis city!  
But, is it only a mirage?

In fact, it is all very real...., but there's a b-u-t:

....but only thanks to the Mendoza and Tunuyán rivers,

...which bring melt waters from the perennial snows of the Andes....

...and an immense complex of irrigation canals and ditches ferries the life-giving water daily to all those beautiful parks, shade trees, and of course, Mendoza's vineyards. 

The Bodega, Alta Vista, with the Andes in the background. 

And the clouds lifted.....

When the clouds disappeared, the blue skies, the mountainous background....

....and the “bodegas” (wineries) were a picture to behold...and a beautiful sight for sore eyes!

What about the Wineries?

More than 1,500 wineries or “bodegas” are concentrated in Mendoza's three main wine regions...

....Maipu, 

....Lujan de Cuyo, and

....Valle de Uco. 

Time now being of the essence,...

.... we decided to focus on Maipu, which is closest to the city and....

.... Lujan, which has the greatest number of wineries in the region (as if we could drink that much....) 

Valle de Uco, a beautiful high range valley,...

.......somewhere up in those mountains, would be for another time.

At the wineries, the big surprise was not the quality of the wines,.....

.......something that had already long been well established....

......but rather the winery architecture...

.....with one bodega seemingly trying to outdo its neighbor. 

And, turning to the wine!

When you think of Mendoza's wine, you might suspect that Spanish and Italian influences would have the upper hand.

After all, both its population and culinary table come from these two countries. 

And that was once true.

However, today the focus is on quality rather than on quantity.  

And to peruse any wine store, it can't escape you. 

 It's definitely the French grape varieties that take the limelight....

....be it Merlot or Chardonnay, 

.....Cabernet Sauvignon, or Argentina’s beloved celebrity, Malbec.....

French wines are the wines of choice.

And that's because it's not only about grapes. 

French know-how and passion for wine have come into play too. 

Thanks to investment and migration, the French were able to bring “savoir-faire” and...

....a real passion for marrying aspects of soil composition, altitude and...

.....the qualities of their grapes, to create world renowned wines from Argentina. 

Being here in this, their first week of "Fall",...

.... and well into the harvest (la cosecha), has been a fantastic experience for us! 

 Mendoza, we want to come back!!

Back in B.A.,  we found an invitation to a music festival in which our condo owner,...

...Pablo Hopenhayn, a music prodigy as it turns out, was playing in a festival.

A great way to drive away the nostalgia that was already setting in.

Well, everyone.  This being our last blog, I'd like to thank you .....and say: 

Adios and Farewell to Argentina.

Blog VII - Jennifer Visits B.A.

Seven full days in Buenos Aires gave Jennifer a real opportunity to get to know the city.

What did she think?

Using excerpts from her Facebook page, here is an overview of her stay here. Enjoy!

B.A./Day I – Having finally arrived, after 18 hours of flight time, we did some much-needed catching up, and then were off to stock up on all kinds of fresh produce and meats for the Protein Princess, that's moi . 

There are AMAZING, super fantastic, fresh produce shops EVERYWHERE! It's HEAVEN for my senses... the colours...the smells, the textures, the natural shapes of real food! 

....Supper was provided by little place called Pampa Linda, a restaurant  where the food, service and atmosphere are fantastic!  It was actually their anniversary that night, so things were very festive.

Linda means "beautiful" in Spanish.

Day II – Imagine, I woke up listening to green parrots flirt and argue outside.  Wow! Then we all set off on foot for a day of exploring this boisterous, colourful and fascinating mecca. 

We began with a few mandatory stops like the big, beautiful cathedral where Jose de San Martin rests (he and Simon Bolivar were responsible for liberating most of South America from Spain) and the Pink Casa where the president fulfills some of her duties. 

Rumour has it that the reason it is pink is because the paint used was mixed with bovine blood.

Next, we headed San Telmo, only to find the biggest market in Buenos Aires. Near the downtown core, it seemed to go on forever, with vendors on both sides. 

In fact, it took us a good 3 hours to go end to end. 

 I ran out of my spending cash way too early,....

 ....too many nice earrings! hahahaha.

Along the way we witnessed some amazing local musicians....

                                  ....other street talent,  

             

....and, of course, a tango demonstration to live music.  

Day III - We hit up a (possibly illegal) money exchange spot to change some US$ for Argentinian pesos. 

The exchange rate is always way better than the official government rate.

By the way, there's almost no coinage here so you always end up with a HUGE WAD of cash.

After, we were off to the playground (a local gym called Always) and then home.

These days, our apartment is where we always return for all things A.C. and H2O.

Did I mention, it's pretty frickin hot here, so re-hydrating is critical. 

Day IV - It's Saint Patty's Day and after our breakfast of champions, prepared by yours truly......, 

..... we hopped in a cab to start our day with an English tour of the famous Recoleta Cemetery. 

If you haven't heard of it, you have definitely seen pictures of it at some point in your life, I promise.

Recoleta Cemetary is located in one of the more posh neighbourhoods of Buenos Aires. 

It is a beautiful, history-filled cemetery, where mausoleums house Argentina's greatest leaders, individuals of notable influence, and the very rich...may they rest in peace.... all in mausoleums. 

As a result, it is an amazing display of 19th and 20th century funeral art, family crypts and architecture. 

Though it was hot as all hell, there was a cool, peaceful and almost eerie breeze that swept through, here and there, between the rows upon rows of tombs.

Dinner was extra special tonight as we decided it would be stupid not to take advantage of the amazing view and charcoal BBQ set-up on the rooftop. 

So the word for tonight's dinner was meat...veggies...and grill, grill, grill!

Day V - Hallelujah, where do I even begin?!!!

When you think of this beautiful country, Argentina, the first things that come to mind are wonderful wine, beautiful steak, emotional soccer, and of course, Evita. 

But what about the great, fast-paced sport of Polo? Might you be surprised if I were to say that the world's best Polo players come from, well, where else,... HERE!

I… GOT... TO... PLAY... POLO with one of them!

On a real polo pony, with a real mallet, on a real pitch (playing field), and I even got to learn from one of Argentina's top pros! HEHEHE!

And how happy a girl was I today? Over the moon under the bright, hot sun!

After a 75-minute drive out of the city and into the Pampas, we pulled up to a gated mecca of huge open fields, long windy driveways, gigantic villas in the background, and beautiful horses everywhere. 

I knew we'd arrived. Puesto Viejo, a 15-year-old Private Polo Club where some of Argentina's finest and top pro players stable their horses and perfect their game.

It is an equine enthusiast's paradise, for anyone seeking a peaceful, chic, classy, yet adrenaline-filled escape from the city. Honestly. I am pretty sure my mouth was gaping from the moment we drove through the gates to the moment we drove off the property some 8 hours later.

We were so lucky yesterday as it was just the 3 of us. We quite literally had the WHOLE place to ourselves. Which is pretty much unspeakable!!! I don't know what the acreage of the club is, but "gargantuan" doesn't even really begin to describe just how vast, and expansive this private and elaborate property is.

Our day started with some delicious coffee and some waiver signing, you know, to sign our lives away in case we died while doing one of the most amazing, yet wildest activities, ever!

Then, we hopped on some old-school one-speed upright bikes and pedaled about a kilometre down the driveway to the stable with our instructor-for-a-day, Argentine Polo pro Julio Casares....

What a name, right?!!!

I immediately knew upon meeting him, that he was going to be a great teacher. He just had this infectious essence of life and oozed with passion for his sport.

After a tour of the barn (housing some 300 horses)...yes, you heard me right...we were introduced to polo mallets. Julio had us stand on 2 foot high sitting stools to practice the 3 different swings used in polo, the half swing, the full swing and the defensive swing.

Not easy....especially on a moving horse.

Mom decided to play it safe and act as official photographer and videographer for the day, while Dad and I took lessons and learned the basics of the sport.

Once on our horses, Julio taught Dad some of the fundamentals of staying on a moving horse...yuk, yuk. I, of course, just wanted to get out on those HUGE, OPEN and so GREEN fields and get swinging and moving!

My horse was a grey mare, extremely pleasant and likable for a hot-blooded, thoroughbred female...

.....while Dad's was friendly, patient, and blessed mostly with one speed.

Lunch was a delicious gastronomical experience featuring what else....beautiful Argentine steak and delicious Mendoza red wine. Green parrots and other native Argentinian birds kept our ears busy throughout lunch, while the grounds canine watchdogs lay at our feet under a beautiful outdoor gazebo-style canopy and the lush green trees. 

There was an almost perfect, cool, calming breeze, one I haven't felt in a long time, maybe ever. It felt almost wrong. 

I felt like I had was taking the place of some pristine, elite princess in a far off country. But yes, it was me....

.....incredibly lucky and grateful to have been in that place, in that moment,...

....with those people – my family and this inspiring polo pro/instructor and with such breath-taking landscape all around me.

After some great talk and much-needed time for digestion, we returned on our bikes to the stable for our second lesson....

......well more of a mock scrimmage full of dirty language from Mademoiselle Austin!!! Yuk Yuk ....whenever Julio managed to sneak around me, or hook my mallet in a defensive move. 

He played against Dad and me and admittedly did a great job of allowing us to take the lead, then tie it up, then “magically” beat him 6-5 in the end.

Our 50 some minute game was probably the 50 “funnest” minutes I have had in a VERY VERY long time. 

The thrill, the fun, the laughter, the adrenaline the endorphin releases... UNREAL!

As the game was winding down, I didn't want it to end. I couldn't believe that I had had the opportunity to spend a day doing this.

Every little detail of the day seemed perfect, and completely unforgettable. 

I felt blessed, despite not being a religious person in the slightest.

After our final dismount, we returned to the hotel/villa , showered, enjoyed coffee and fresh-made cakes and then were whisked off by our driver to Pitch 4 (Cacha 4) to watch our instructor Julio and his team play in real tournament play. 

Watching him play with his teammates, took my breath away. The speed, the sounds, the insanely fast pace of the horses galloping around the field, felt in our feet through the ground.

This game is so fast and the field so long, that a one-hour match requires 5 horse changes for EACH rider!

That means every rider uses 6 different horses in a game! 

The number of groomsmen and horses tied along the outskirts of the field was wild and yet incredible. 

Watching that game and the skill-level of these pro players made me realize just how much time, effort, money, dedication and practice must have been required to get these men and women (yes, mixed teams) to this level of sport.

And further made me wonder why this was not a recognized Olympic sport, and yet “table tennis,” ie – ping-pong, is???

Regardless, after the match, some more photos and some final, long, thoughtful gazes around the grounds, we jumped back into our driver's red van and shot off back to the core of Buenos Aires.

I owe my parents – Linda and Charles Austin, the biggest GRACIAS in the world. Yesterday was a day I will NEVER EVER forget. It wouldn't have been possible without their research, organization and pesos! I am a lucky girl, that's for sure! 

I am also a very proud daughter, for my dad was not originally planning on partaking in the riding part of the day, due to his allergies of horses. 

Thankfully, I happened to have allergy pills with me which helped him get through the experience sans reactions. 

The smile on his face never wavered, never left for a second. 

Mom's photos and videographing made the whole day a real memory, as you, my friends, would not be seeing evidence of it, without her fine and dedicated efforts.

I can honestly say that giving myself this trip to Argentina, as a 30th birthday gift, was the best birthday gift I have ever received or experienced. 

And this day, learning the “sport of kings,” made me feel like one hell-of-a-queen!!! 

No question, it is one of the top 3 most memorable experiences of my life, so far.

Day VI - Today was intended to be a bit of a quieter day following yesterday's excitement at Puesto Viejo. After breakfast, we headed down to San Martin Square, where there was an international food festival.

The sights and smells that filled the air made you want to fill your belly and dance around the square amongst the array of multicultural booths and curious citizens.

Later, we meandered into a little art gallery boutique where I purchased a small but beautiful painting from a local artist of this amazing city.

Later, we took in a local live act at a Jazz bar called Thelonious Club, where, oddly enough, an old-school blues band was performing....but the week was catching up to us so we only lasted until 11:00.

Day VII – My last full day in Buenos Aires. I think the name of this ciudad (city) best captures the nature of this day, here in Argentina. Buenos Aires means beautiful air(s). 

And today we were graced with a day full of beautiful winds and breezes, as we spent a relaxing day perusing, coffee drinking, working-out, and of course, some time up on the roof. 

And why not, the clouds had all scurried away and it was sunny again!

There, hours away from flight time, I couldn't help but appreciate how much this place had grown on me. 

 The fluid, exotic flow of the language, the beautiful people, the sounds, smells and sights, forever capturing your attention, are at every corner you turn... 


....and that breeze...

.....that calming, soothing, refreshing wind that always seems to find you at just the right moment.

As a grand finale to my week here, we headed off to Parcque Centenario for an evening of modern contemporary ballet followed by a tango ballet,...

...something I am sure one would only find here in Argentina. 

The music and dancing  by were mesmerizing.

One last thought, before I say good night... thinking back to earlier today when I was laying up on the rooftop, I can't help but be reminded of how much it felt once again, like I was in a dream … 

...it is hard to capture with just a few hundred words just how magical and raw and alive a totally new place, a totally new world can make you feel and think.

The only way to really learn about oneself and grow as an individual is to put yourself in new situations and take advantage of opportunities to test yourself, to see who you really are in a completely new and foreign environment.

If this trip has made me realize anything, it is that your life is only as big of an adventure novel as the pages you choose to fill your book with. 

We may not have absolute control over every aspect of our lives, but we do decide what we do with our time and who we spend it with. 

A wise man I've known a very long time used to preach to me that "life is all about choices". 

So today, the last day of this short, but rich chapter of my life story, I leave you with a question and a little food for thought. What kind of book do you want you life story to be?

Hasta La Vista, Everyone!